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Botto Labs / Goa

Cotton waste came first.

Before there was a lab, the work began on a factory floor, with cotton left over from production.

Current work

  • Fabulose® cellulose material
  • Application development
  • Colour and finish
  • Production development
Panoramic factory view of stacked cotton bales beneath a steel roof, from Botto's 2010 Welspun project
Spun / Cotton researchBotto archive / 2010

The first project / 2010

First, we made yarn.

Spun explored how factory cotton waste could become yarns and hand-tufted rugs. Developed for Welspun, the project put discarded fibre back into the hands of textile makers.

Working with spinners, dyers and weavers meant taking that cotton through the decisions that make a textile: the yarn, the colour, the surface. The work began with the fibre itself.

Cotton bales and a hand trolley on the factory floor, photographed for Spun in 2010
The starting material / Factory cotton waste
Yarn being worked on a wooden spinning apparatus during the Spun project
Developing the yarn / Spun
Rows of small yarn samples in natural and dyed colours from Botto's Spun project for Welspun
Colour and yarn studies / Spun, 2010

2010 to today

Beyond the yarn.

Sixteen years on, our relationship with cotton has moved beyond the yarn. Research with plants and living cultures changed how we approached material-making.

With Fabulose®, we now work with the cellulose within cotton textile waste, developing rolls and sheets for new applications. The early work gave us a knowledge of the fibre. The lab lets us reconsider its form.

View the Spun archive

Why textile waste

The cloth is cut.
The cotton remains.

Textiles are where Botto began, and where we are concentrating our work. India has a substantial flow of discarded textiles. Much of it is cotton-rich.

Million tonnes a year
7.8Textile waste accumulated in India, including imports.
Before consumer use
42%The pre-consumer share, from textile and garment production.
Cotton & cotton-rich
61%The share made up of cotton and cotton-rich blends.

Source: Wealth in Waste, July 2022, pp. 21–22, 27. Fashion for Good, Sattva Consulting, Reverse Resources and Saahas Zero Waste. Estimates are rounded; cotton-rich includes blends with at least 50% cotton.

Read the full report

Our part starts
with cotton cuttings.

India already has an extensive textile reuse and recycling economy. We focus on pre-consumer cotton textile cuttings, working with the cellulose they contain.

Fabulose® takes that cellulose into rolls and sheets, with colour, finish and construction developed around the intended product.

Explore Fabulose®

Inside the lab

A material has to
work in the making.

Material

Formulation, colour and finish are developed together, with the intended use in view.

Application

Designers and manufacturers test the material in a construction, bringing product knowledge into development.

Production

Consistent colour, thickness and finish matter beyond the first sample. Repeatability guides our work on rolls and sheets.

Starting materials

Not everything starts
with a new resource.

Our research ranges from agricultural residues and living cultures to the waste left by industry. These are different lines of enquiry, not interchangeable ingredients.

Two women seated beside a pile of agricultural waste, preparing material for Insulium research
Preparing agricultural residues / Insulium archive

Plant matter

Sorghum stalks left after harvest. Bamboo fibres. We explore how the structure of plant matter can contribute to a material, rather than treating it as filler.

A hand holding a glass tube with a white fungal culture, from Botto's Insulium archive
Mycelium culture / Botto archive

Living cultures

Algae, bacteria and yeast open other routes to making materials. Alongside our mycelium studies, this research asks what we can grow, not only what we can extract.

Cotton textile cuttings collected for material development at Botto
Cotton textile cuttings / Current focus

Textile remnants

A cutting room leaves more than scraps. It leaves cotton, and cotton contains cellulose. That is the starting point for Fabulose: changing the form of a material we already have.

Since 2010

Research journey.

  1. 2010

    An independent textile practice

    Nitya Amarnath founded Botto in 2010. Cotton waste was the starting point.

  2. 2016

    A room at home becomes a materials lab

    An early culture study in a glass vessel from the Botto archive
    Early culture study / Botto archive
    Translucent amber material samples from Botto's early research archive
    Material samples / Botto archive
  3. 2018–19

    Bio-based leather and mycelium studies

    Early biomaterial leather development tanks
    Bio-based leather / Bengaluru / 2018
    Early mycelium and agricultural waste packaging study
    Mycelium and jowar / Bengaluru / 2019
  4. 2019

    Fabulose and Insulium at Harvest

    Fabulose and Insulium were shown together at Asian Paints ColourNext in New Delhi. Insulium explores insulation in architecture and product design.

    About the exhibition
  5. 2020

    Colour, grown in culture

    Pigment exploration in Mumbai brought together a distinct collection of more than ten algal strains, opening another line of enquiry into colour.

    Five glass flasks containing differently coloured cultures from Botto's pigment research
    Pigment exploration / Mumbai / 2020
  6. 2021

    A wider field of raw materials

    Exploration across agricultural residues, living cultures and industrial by-products broadened the research into what a material could begin with.

    Two women sorting agricultural stalks by hand
    Agricultural residues collected and stored for material research
  7. 2022

    Return to biomaterials

    The work returned to biomaterials with a sharper focus on fashion, connecting material research with the demands of clothing and accessories.

    Overlapping translucent material samples in green, orange and red
    Round material samples and a translucent textured swatch
  8. 2023

    Material development takes shape

    Working in Goa brought the research closer to coastal resources. Locally sourced seaweed and mollusc shells opened new directions for material development.

    Mollusc shells collected for coastal material research in Goa
  9. 2024

    An embroidery collaboration

    Botto joins The Stitch Archive and Vashishtha through New Landscapes India, taking material research to the embroidery frame and Making Matters in New Delhi.

  10. 2025

    From the frame to the runway

    The collaboration reaches GANNI’s autumn/winter collection and the Materials and Sustainability Pavilion at Bharat Tex in New Delhi.

  11. 2026

    In conversation with the industry

    Nitya joins Creative Convergence in New Delhi, bringing the lab's work into a discussion of sustainable fashion and policy.

Founder / Textile designer

Nitya Amarnath

Nitya Amarnath founded Botto in 2010. A textile designer with a family history of weaving, she named the practice after the Sourashtra word for fabric.

Her experience spans natural fibres, weaving, printing and work with craft communities. Today, she brings that knowledge to biomaterials research in Goa, developing new materials in dialogue with the people who will work with them.

In the public eye

Press & recognition.

From development to production.

Our next stage is to develop Fabulose® for more consistent production and wider trials. We welcome investors who want to examine the material, understand the development work and discuss how to fund that stage.

Have a project in mind? Talk to Botto